The Changezi trail

Chicken Changezi

Genghis Khan the founder of the great Mongol empire would never have imagined that a delicacy would ever be named after him, forget, be cherished at least a few centuries later. Yes, I am talking about Chicken Changezi, a Ramzan delicacy and patronized by a small motley restaurant near Jama Masjid. As the story goes , Genghis Khan was fond of food which was not quite spicy and was presented with a delicacy of chicken prepared in milk and ghee, replacing water. The rest has been history. Half a decade ago, when we ( +Jameel Ahmad Khan and me) first set out in search of this place, we were advised to lookout for a pehlwan (wrestler), and while walking through the alleys near Jama Masjid, we spot a guy sitting in front of a shop, almost the dimensions of a Sumo wrestler and the intuition was confirmed by a tiny board announcing "Chicken Changezi".

Chicken Soup

Chicken Changezi

Half a decade later and few dozens trips later, we still cherish the taste of Chicken Changezi and much more, the price as we run out of money at the end of the month. The place has rarely changed including the bearers, except for a new expanded seating arrangement, and a new kiosk where you can collect your coupons. The taste still remains the same, the price has marginally changed. For the less adventurous, and who have attachments (family, I mean), there is a more amicable place for you at Darya Ganj, just next to Golcha Cinemas. 

Must try:

Chicken Changezi

Chicken Soup

Reaching There

Take a rickshaw from Jama Masjid Gate No 2 or walk down the narrow road. Ask for directions if you get lost.

Summary points:

Food 9/10

Ambience 4/10

Service 4/10

Value for Money 9/10

Get Drunk Drinking Milk

The Milk Tawa

I know that is a preposterous statement. No, I did not want to make you a fool on April 1, nevertheless I am happy that you want to know more.

For all who hated drinking milk as a kid, yes we are on the same page, and believe me, if you did not try this place, you have missed something. The place is just outside Jama Masjid Gate No 1; the corner shop just before Karims. You will see a guy in front of a huge tawa boiling milk, and a modest crowd surrounding the tawa, each waiting for their turn to gulp a glass. The milk is boiled to a to a slurry and topped with a bit of Rabdi (condensed milk), and served in earthern pots. Gulp a glassful, and you should be immediately feeling a burst of serotonin.

Where: Kallan Sweets, Near gate No 1, Jama Masjid

Must try :
Tawa Milk

Reaching there:
The restaurant is near Gate 1 of Jama Masjid, just near to Karims. If you take a metro, get down and Chawri bazaar and get a cycle rikshaw. Parking is not available near the restaurant.

Summary points:
Food 9/10
Ambience 5/10
Service 4/10
Value for Money 9/10

Step aside if you could'nt get into Karims

Brain Curry

For many, eating at old Delhi means just Karims, but many at times the place is too crowded especially if you are taking your family or friends. There are quite some places around which offer authentic Mughalai cuisine I you have been unlucky to get your foot in Karims. Al Jawahar is just next door to Karims. The place is roomy and has a family section, and of course, air-conditioned. The staff is quite well behaved, prompt and friendly unlike at Karims.

Roomali Roti

The menu is quite a comprehensive list of Mughalai dishes. The dishes come in substantial proportions and usually unless you are quite a glutton more than sufficient for a person. There are quite some dishes you should try. If you are adventurous, yo should try the yummy Brain curry. For the less adventurous , you have Chicken Jahangiri and Chicken Kalimirch. If you want to take a safe bet, try Chicken/Mutton stew.

If you visit the restaurant in the morning , you could try Paaya for breakfast .

Must try :
Paaya (breakfast)
Brain curry
Chicken Jahangiri
Chicken/Mutton stew

Kebabs
Sheermal and Roomali roti

Reaching there: 
The restaurant is near Gate 1 of Jama Masjid, just near to Karims. If you take a metro, get down and Chawri bazaar and get a cycle rikshaw. Parking is not available near the restaurant.

Summary points:
Food 8/10
Ambience 5/10
Service 6/10
Value for Money 8/10